The History of Hermès

A Journey from Equestrian Roots to Global Luxury

Welcome to the 14th edition of the Maximalist! Dive into the ultimate guide, filled with insider insights into the world of fashion, art, real estate, travel, jewelry, and horology.

The world of luxury is never boring, and this week is no exception. Let’s dive in!

Markets

Values are as of market close on Monday, November 27, 2023, 4:00 p.m. ET. Percentages are based on stock performance over the prior 5 days

Aston Martin’s Display Marks the Largest Formula 1 Marketing Presence

Celebrating its 110th anniversary, Aston Martin is making a grand statement at the Formula 1 Heineken Silver Las Vegas Grand Prix with its largest ever F1 marketing presence. The event features Aston Martin's extensive VIP customer program, track experiences, and a striking digital display on the Sphere. The brand's partnership includes showcasing its high-performance vehicles and integrating the new F1 street circuit into its luxury configurator, a first in the automotive industry.

Marco Mattiacci, Aston Martin's Global Chief Brand and Commercial Officer, highlights the event's significance in enhancing brand perception and connecting with new audiences. The immersive Sphere advertisement showcases Aston Martin's iconic imagery and vehicles, including the AMR23 racecar and DBX707 SUV. The brand's activities, such as Hot Laps and an off-road desert adventure, aim to blend luxury experiences with the excitement of F1, reinforcing Aston Martin's legacy in high-performance and luxury. Read more →

LVMH and Stanford HAI Collaborate to Harness AI in Luxury Brand Innovation

LVMH has formed a strategic partnership with Stanford University's Human-Centered Artificial Intelligence Institute (Stanford HAI) to explore the applications of AI in luxury branding. This collaboration aims to integrate AI technology into LVMH's portfolio, enhancing customer experiences and operational efficiency. LVMH has been progressively incorporating AI, and this partnership reflects its commitment to leveraging AI while maintaining the essence of human creativity and emotion in its brands.

The partnership will focus on research projects in AI safety, human-centered design, human-computer interaction, and foundation models. Key areas include enhancing customer experience, product design, marketing, manufacturing, and supply chain management through AI. This collaboration is crucial for developing AI technology that positively impacts humans, aligning with Stanford HAI's mission.

Antonio Belloni, LVMH Group Managing Director, emphasizes AI's role as a complement to human talent. James Landay of Stanford HAI highlights the importance of designing technology with people in mind. This partnership marks a strategic move towards a human-centered approach to AI, balancing technological innovation with the artistry and craftsmanship inherent in luxury brands. As LVMH and Stanford HAI advance in this venture, they aim to set new standards in the luxury industry, showcasing the potential of AI-powered luxury while preserving human-centric values. Read more →

LVMH Data AI Summit 2024

Saks Parent HBC Bolsters Retail Operations with $340 Million Real Estate Cash Infusion

Hudson's Bay Company (HBC) has secured $340 million through savvy real estate transactions, reinforcing its retail operations. CEO Richard Baker emphasizes HBC's primary identity as a real estate firm, owning $7 billion in assets and regularly monetizing them. This strategy involves selling $300 to $500 million in real estate annually, independent of the company's earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization.

The recent cash influx, derived from property sales in Canada and the U.S., will support HBC's operating divisions, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Saks Off 5th, and Hudson’s Bay brick-and-mortar stores, as well as their e-commerce counterparts. Baker highlights the company's focus on digital luxury, particularly saks.com, aiming to make it a leading luxury digital retailer globally.

Amidst a challenging retail environment marked by economic uncertainties, HBC has adapted by reducing inventory and streamlining brand offerings. Despite rumors and market challenges, Baker remains confident in HBC's strategy, backed by its substantial real estate holdings and ambitious plans for saks.com. There are also hints of potential expansion, with Baker reportedly eyeing a takeover of luxury retail rival Neiman Marcus. Read more →

Saks Fifth Avenue’s NYC Flagship

Gucci's Auction Underwhelms: A Shift in Luxury Market Sentiment

An auction of rare Gucci handbags at Christie’s indicated a cooling in the high-end luxury market. Two of the featured Gucci Bamboo bags failed to meet their low pre-sale estimates, while a third barely reached them. The most expensive item, a black leather bamboo bag with a yellow gold handle and diamond-encrusted closure, was expected to fetch between €150,000 and €200,000 but sold for only €138,600. This auction was a collaboration between Gucci and Christie’s that aimed to support Save Venice, a charity preserving Venice's artistic heritage. Christie’s is owned by the Pinault family's Artemis, which also holds a major stake in Gucci's parent company, Kering SA.

The auction results reflect a broader trend of declining luxury purchases after a surge during and post-pandemic. Gucci, in particular, has seen lagging sales compared to its luxury peers in recent years, leading to a brand reset and the appointment of a new designer, Sabato de Sarno. Analyst Luca Solca views the auction as part of Gucci's strategy to reinforce its brand value and longevity amidst a shifting luxury market landscape. Read more →

The Gucci Bamboo Bag

The History of Hermès: A Journey from Equestrian Roots to Global Luxury

In the pantheon of luxury brands, Hermès occupies the number one spot for exclusivity, craftsmanship, and quality. Founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès, the brand began its journey in the heart of Paris, not as a fashion house but as a humble harness workshop. This modest beginning, however, was imbued with a vision that would transcend time and trends, setting the stage for a legacy that would define luxury for centuries.

Thierry Hermès

From its inception, Hermès was more than just a manufacturer of equestrian equipment; it was a purveyor of a dream, a dream of elegance, sophistication, and unparalleled quality. Thierry Hermès, a master harness maker, catered to the European nobility, providing them with the finest leather harnesses and bridles. This focus on equestrian gear laid the foundation for the Hermès ethos. It was this dedication to the art of craftsmanship that set Hermès apart from its contemporaries and marked the beginning of its journey into the annals of luxury.

As Paris evolved into the fashion capital of the world, so did Hermès, adapting to the changing times while maintaining its commitment to excellence. The transition from a harness workshop to a luxury fashion brand was gradual but deliberate. Each step in this journey was marked by innovation and foresight, whether it was the expansion into saddlery, the introduction of leather goods, or the foray into the world of high fashion. Hermès did not just follow trends; it set them, redefining luxury and elegance with each new creation.

The story of Hermès is not just a chronicle of a brand; it is a narrative of a vision that sought to blend functionality with beauty, tradition with innovation, and craftsmanship with luxury. It is the tale of a family business that grew into a global empire yet never lost sight of its roots or its commitment to the artisanal values on which it was built. Hermès, through its journey, has become synonymous with timeless elegance, a brand that does not just create products but crafts heirlooms, items of beauty and worth that transcend their material value to become symbols of a rich heritage and a storied past.

The Evolution of Hermès

In the late 19th century, Hermès, under the guidance of Thierry Hermès, was renowned for its superior-quality equestrian gear, catering to the European elite. This specialization in high-quality leather harnesses and bridles for carriages sets the tone for the brand's future direction.

As the 20th century dawned, Hermès began to diversify its offerings, a strategic move that would mark its transition from a specialized workshop to a luxury fashion brand. The introduction of leather handbags in 1922 was a pivotal moment in this transformation. These handbags, designed with the same attention to detail and quality as their equestrian counterparts, quickly garnered acclaim. This expansion continued with the introduction of travel bags in 1925, broadening the brand's appeal and setting the stage for its future as a purveyor of luxury goods.

The 1930s and 1940s were decades of significant innovation for Hermès. The brand introduced the “Kelly bag,” originally designed as a saddle holder, which would later become one of the most coveted fashion accessories in the world. The launch of the iconic Hermès scarves in 1937, with their intricate designs and luxurious silk fabric, further cemented the brand's reputation for luxury and quality. The post-war period saw the debut of the Hermès signature logo and the iconic orange boxes, which have become synonymous with luxury and exclusivity.

The latter half of the 20th century saw Hermès continue to expand and innovate. The establishment of a watch subsidiary in Switzerland in the 1970s and strategic acquisitions in the 1980s, particularly in tableware, demonstrated the brand's ambition to become a comprehensive luxury lifestyle brand. The introduction of the Birkin bag in 1984, named after actress Jane Birkin, was a defining moment for Hermès. This bag became a symbol of luxury and a coveted item among the elite.

Throughout its evolution, Hermès has remained steadfast in its commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Each product, whether a saddle, scarf, or handbag, is imbued with the legacy of the Hermès brand—a legacy of meticulous craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and a relentless pursuit of perfection. This commitment has allowed Hermès to not only adapt to changing times but to thrive, setting the standard for what luxury means in the modern world.

The Birth of the Birkin

The story of the Birkin bag began in 1981, high above the clouds on an airplane journey from Paris to London. Jean-Louis Dumas, the then CEO of Hermès, found himself seated next to actress Jane Birkin. Jane, known for her effortless style and chic persona, was struggling to fit her straw bag into the overhead compartment. This struggle sparked a conversation between the two, during which Jane expressed her frustration at not finding a leather weekend bag that suited her needs. Intrigued and inspired by this encounter, Dumas saw an opportunity to create something unique, something that would not only meet the practical needs of Jane but also embody the elegance and luxury of Hermès.

Jane Birkin with her famous messy and overflowing Birkin

The bag that Dumas designed for Jane was a masterpiece of design and functionality. Crafted from the finest leather, with a spacious interior and a distinctively structured shape, the Birkin bag was both practical and stylish. It was a bag that could transition seamlessly from a weekend getaway to a high-fashion event, embodying the versatility and elegance that have become synonymous with Hermès.

The Birkin quickly transcended its initial purpose, becoming a symbol of luxury and exclusivity. Each Birkin can take up to 48 hours to make and is 100% done by a single artisan. This commitment to craftsmanship ensures that each Birkin is not just a bag but a piece of art. The rarity and craftsmanship of the Birkin have made it not just a coveted item among the elite but also a symbol of status and wealth.

The pricing of a Birkin is reflective of its exclusivity, leather choice, and the meticulous effort that goes into its creation. Typically, the cost of a Birkin bag starts at around 8,000 retail, but this can escalate significantly depending on the materials and design. Some Birkins crafted from exotic leathers or adorned with precious metals and stones have commanded prices upwards of $200,000 at auction.

Birkins have constantly fetched record-breaking prices at auctions, becoming collectible items for connoisseurs and enthusiasts of luxury goods. For instance, a Hermès Birkin bag set a world record in 2016 when it was sold at a Christie's auction in Hong Kong for an astounding $300,168. This particular bag was a rare Himalaya Birkin, made from the skin of the Niloticus crocodile and embellished with 18k white gold and diamond hardware.

The Himalayan Diamond Encrusted and White Gold Birkin

Such auction results are a testament to the Birkin bag's status as not just a fashion accessory but a valuable investment. Collectors have gone so far as to claim that a Birkin is a better investment than gold, stocks, and even real estate. The combination of exquisite craftsmanship, rarity, and the Hermès legacy contributes to the Birkin's high valuation in the secondary market. The astronomical prices that Birkin bags can fetch at auctions highlight their unique position in the world of luxury fashion, where they are seen as much as symbols of wealth and status as they are examples of high-end design and craftsmanship.

Hermès' Global Strategy and Brand Philosophy

At the heart of Hermès' global strategy lies a keen understanding of the luxury market's dynamics and an ability to adapt to its ever-changing landscape. Hermès has strategically positioned itself in key markets around the world, ensuring a balance between maintaining its exclusivity and expanding its global footprint. This expansion has been carefully managed, with a focus on opening standalone boutiques in prestigious locations rather than relying on wholesale distribution. This approach allows Hermès to control the customer experience, ensuring that it aligns with the brand's high standards of service and quality.

In addition to geographic expansion, Hermès has diversified its product range to cater to a broader audience while maintaining its core identity. From leather goods and saddlery, the brand has successfully branched into ready-to-wear, accessories, silk, textiles, and home decor. Each new venture is approached with the same dedication to quality and craftsmanship, ensuring that every product bearing the Hermès name is synonymous with excellence.

The essence of Hermès' brand philosophy is its unwavering commitment to craftsmanship and quality. This philosophy is rooted in the brand's heritage as a maker of equestrian equipment, where functionality and durability were as important as aesthetics. Hermès has carried this ethos into every aspect of its operations, from product design to customer service. The brand's dedication to producing most of its products in France, coupled with its rejection of mass production, ensures the exclusivity and uniqueness of each item.

Hermès Paris Faubourg Saint Honoré Flagship Boutique

Hermès' philosophy also extends to its approach to sustainability and ethical practices. The brand is known for its responsible sourcing of materials and its commitment to traditional craftsmanship, which not only ensures the longevity of its products but also minimizes environmental impact.

A key aspect of Hermès' strategy has been maintaining its independence. Unlike many luxury brands that are part of larger conglomerates, Hermès has largely remained a family-owned business. This independence has allowed the brand to stay true to its values and vision, making decisions that prioritize long-term brand integrity over short-term gains. This approach has fostered a sense of authenticity and trust among its clientele, further solidifying Hermès' position as a leader in the luxury market.

Hermès' journey from a harness workshop to a global luxury icon is a narrative of excellence, tradition, and innovation. The brand, through its commitment to craftsmanship, quality, and exclusivity, has not just created products but has crafted a legacy that symbolizes the pinnacle of luxury and elegance. Hermès stands as a testament to the enduring allure of refined luxury in the modern world.

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