The Hidden Truth Behind Luxury Fashion

Welcome to the 6th edition of Maximalist! Dive into the ultimate guide, filled with insider insights into the world of fashion, art, real estate, travel, jewelry, and horology.

The world of luxury is never boring, and this week is no exception. Let’s dive in!

Markets

Benetti Unveils Two New Models at Monaco Yacht Show 2023

At the Monaco Yacht Show 2023, Italian shipbuilder Benetti introduced two flagship models and a novel deck design. The new additions to their fleet are the Motopanfilo 45M and the B.Yond 55M, both crafted in steel and echoing the design language of their predecessors with notable advancements. The innovative deck, named the Veranda Deck, is designed to seamlessly blend the interior and exterior, eliminating any barriers. This feature, conceptualized by RWD, caters to a new generation of yacht owners who cherish a close connection with the outdoors. The Motopanfilo 45M, currently under development, will be the first to showcase the Veranda Deck. The B.Yond 55M, designed by Lobanov Design, bridges the gap between superyachts and explorer yachts, boasting unique spatial arrangements and an "optical illusion" design that conceals its interior. The Monaco Yacht Show also marked Benetti's collaborations with renowned designers Espen Øino and Valentina Zannier. Read more →

Richard Mille's RM 07-01 Collection: A Fusion of Pastels and Precision

Swiss watchmaker Richard Mille, renowned for its bold racing-inspired timepieces, has unveiled three limited-edition models in its RM 07-01 collection for women. These ultra-feminine watches, known for their superior mechanical craftsmanship, now come in pastel ceramic with radiant multi-material guilloché dials. The RM 07-01 Coloured Ceramics collection includes the RM 07-01 Pastel Blue, Pastel Pink, and Pastel Lavender, each paired with vibrant rubber straps and limited to 50 pieces. Cécile Guenat, Richard Mille’s director of creation and development, drew inspiration from Miami's Art Deco architecture, reflecting its distinctive pastel hues and bold patterns. The collection's uniqueness lies in its hand-crafted guillochage on the central dial plates, a decorative technique dating back to the 16th century. These watches, with their innovative design and technical prowess, underscore the brand's commitment to both aesthetics and performance. Read more →

The Attico Debuts First Runway Collection at Milan Fashion Week for Spring 2024

Since its inception in 2016, The Attico has garnered a dedicated following, with its darkly glamorous evening wear gracing the likes of Rihanna, Dua Lipa, and Hailey Bieber. Despite its popularity, the Attico, founded by influencers Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, had never hosted a fashion show. This changed with their Spring 2024 collection, marking The Attico's runway debut.

The event took place on a residential street in Milan's Arco della Pace neighborhood. The collection showcased 42 looks, blending sheer materials and mirrored sequins with oversized utility jackets, cargo pants, and other statement outerwear. The ambiance evoked a spontaneous street party, with models appearing as if they were local residents ready for a night out.

Front row attendees included Gucci's new creative director Sabato De Sarno, footwear designer Amina Muaddi, influencer Chiara Ferragni, and "White Lotus" star Sabrina Impacciatore. The collection redefined "day-to-night" dressing, featuring pieces like an oversized grey trench coat paired with silver pants and semi-naked dresses adorned with sequins and feathers. Accessories, such as crystal-embellished flats and shimmering clutches, are anticipated to be in high demand next spring.

Seven years into its journey, The Attico's inaugural runway show signifies the brand's growing confidence in its eveningwear and accessories, hinting at a future beyond its current cult status. Read more →

Porsche and TAG Heuer Unveil "Legends of Panamericana" Sonderwunsch Project

At the Rennsport Reunion 7 in California, TAG Heuer and Porsche unveiled the “Legends of Panamericana” Sonderwunsch project, spotlighting two race cars inspired by the Porsche 718 Cayman GT4 RS. These vehicles pay tribute to the iconic 550 Coupes from the historic La Carrera Panamericana race in Mexico (1952-1954). The race had previously inspired watchmaker Jack Heuer to create the Carrera watch. Actor and racer Patrick Dempsey presented the No. 154 car and will compete in the revived Panamericana race this October. The special Caymans, crafted in Stuttgart-Zuffenhausen, feature a Guard’s Red interior, vintage design elements, and an analog double-stopwatch module. Dempsey also showcased TAG Heuer’s new Porsche-tribute timepiece, the Chronosprint in rose gold. Post-race, one of the Sonderwunsch cars will be auctioned for charity, highlighting the collaboration's commitment to philanthropy. Read more →

The Hidden Truth Behind Luxury Fashion: India's Role in the Supply Chain

Luxury fashion has long been synonymous with exclusivity, prestige, and a rich European heritage. Brands from Paris, Milan, and other fashion capitals have cultivated an image of artisanal craftsmanship rooted deeply in European traditions. Consumers, seduced by this allure, often envision skilled craftsmen in sophisticated ateliers, painstakingly creating each piece. Luxury is often associated with glamorous runways, exquisite designs, and labels that proudly boast "Made in Europe." However, beneath the surface of these high-end garments lies a complex and sometimes murky supply chain that stretches far beyond the borders of Europe. As the demand for intricate designs and detailed handwork has grown, recent investigations have unveiled a surprising connection between luxury fashion brands and the workshops of India, a country with a rich tapestry of textile and embroidery traditions spanning centuries.

Yet, instead of celebrating this collaboration, there's a veil of secrecy. Many of these garments, significantly crafted in India, return to Europe for final touches, allowing brands to stamp them with the coveted "Made in Europe" label. This practice not only obscures the origins of these luxury items but also raises pressing questions about transparency, ethics, and the true value of craftsmanship in the globalized world of fashion. It is also important to note, that while we are bringing this to your attention today, this has been going on for decades, with no intentions of stopping.

The Reality in Mumbai's Workshops

In the heart of Mumbai, a city known for its juxtaposition of modern skyscrapers and historical architecture, lies a lesser-known world that plays a pivotal role in the global luxury fashion industry. Hidden away in narrow alleys and atop staircases covered in a mix of dirt and sequins, artisans hunch over fabrics, meticulously embroidering designs for some of the world's leading fashion brands.

These workshops, often dimly lit and cramped, buzz with the sound of needles and threads weaving intricate patterns. These artisans have inherited their craft from generations before them and possess skills that are sought after by luxury brands including their unparalleled precision and attention to detail. Yet their working conditions starkly contrast with the opulence of the brands they serve. Many of these workers, earning just a few dollars a day, operate in environments that lack basic amenities. Windows, often barred or caged, offer little ventilation, and the absence of emergency exits poses significant safety concerns. Health benefits are a luxury these artisans can't afford, and as the day's work concludes, many find solace and rest on the cold, hard floors they work on, wrapped in the very fabrics they've spent hours embroidering.

It's essential to note that these aren't the factories associated with fast fashion brands, which have previously come under scrutiny for their supply chain practices, especially after the tragic Rana Plaza factory collapse in 2013 in Bangladesh. Instead, these workshops are subcontracted by international luxury designers, revealing a concerning disparity between the image these brands project and the realities of their production processes.

The "Made in Europe" Deception

The allure of luxury fashion is deeply intertwined with its origins. When consumers purchase a high-end garment, they're not just buying a piece of clothing; they're buying into a narrative, a story of heritage, craftsmanship, and exclusivity. The label "Made in Europe," whether it reads "Made in Italy," "Made in France," or any other European country, carries with it a weight of history, a promise of quality, and an aura of prestige. It evokes images of seasoned craftsmen in historic ateliers, surrounded by cobblestone streets and the echoes of centuries of fashion evolution.

However, as the fashion industry has become more globalized, the journey of a luxury garment is rarely confined to one country or continent. The intricate embroideries, the delicate beadwork, the hand-stitched details that often define luxury are increasingly the handiwork of artisans thousands of miles away from Europe, particularly in India. This country, with its rich history of textile artistry and craftsmanship, offers skills that are both unique and unparalleled. Indian artisans, with their generations of expertise, breathe life into the designs, adding layers of depth and intricacy.

Yet, once their role is fulfilled, the garments often embark on another journey, returning to Europe. Here, in the final stages of production, they might receive finishing touches, be it a final stitch, a label, or a button. This brief European sojourn allows brands to legally affix the "Made in Europe" label, despite the heart of the garment's creation taking place in the workshops of India.

This practice is more than just a minor oversight; it's a deliberate obfuscation. It not only misleads the consumer, who remains unaware of the true origins of their purchase but also does a grave disservice to the artisans whose hands have shaped the garment. Their contribution, essential to the very essence of the piece, is rendered invisible, overshadowed by a label that seeks to simplify and homogenize a garment's complex journey.

Moreover, this deception raises pressing ethical questions. Is it right for brands to capitalize on the prestige of European craftsmanship while sidelining the contributions of artisans elsewhere? How can the true value of a garment be understood if its story is only half-told? In an age where transparency and authenticity are increasingly valued, the "Made in Europe" label, as it stands, risks becoming an outdated and misleading relic of a bygone era.

The Way Forward

In today's rapidly evolving global landscape, the fashion industry stands at a crossroads. The age-old practices of mystique and exclusivity are being challenged by a new wave of conscious consumers who demand transparency, authenticity, and ethical practices. The revelations about the hidden hands of Indian artisans behind luxury fashion's facade present both a challenge and an opportunity for the industry to redefine its values and chart a more inclusive and honest path forward.

Transparency is no longer a mere buzzword; it's an imperative. Consumers are not just passive recipients of products; they are informed stakeholders who want to understand the journey of their purchases. They seek brands that align with their values, and they're willing to reward those that do with loyalty and advocacy. In this context, the first step for luxury brands is to acknowledge the global tapestry of artisans that contribute to their collections. Celebrating the craftsmanship of Indian artisans, among others, and giving them due credit not only enriches the narrative of the garments but also fosters a deeper connection with consumers.

Beyond acknowledgment, there's a pressing need for systemic change. Fair compensation, safe working conditions, and respect for artisans' rights should be non-negotiable standards, not aspirational goals. Collaborative efforts between brands, NGOs, governments, and industry bodies can pave the way for certifications and standards that ensure ethical practices across the supply chain.

Furthermore, education plays a pivotal role. Brands can invest in training programs, workshops, and skill development initiatives for artisans, ensuring the preservation and evolution of traditional crafts. Such endeavors not only uplift communities but also lead to innovations that can redefine luxury fashion.

Lastly, storytelling is a powerful tool. The narratives that brands weave around their collections can be enriched by highlighting the diverse contributions that go into each piece. Virtual tours of workshops, profiles of artisans, and behind-the-scenes glimpses into the creation process can demystify the journey of a garment, making it more relatable and valuable to the consumer.

In essence, the future of luxury fashion hinges on its ability to embrace a more holistic, transparent, and inclusive approach. It's not just about the final product but the myriad hands, hearts, and histories that shape it. By recognizing and valuing every contributor in this journey, the industry can redefine luxury in terms that resonate with the values and aspirations of the modern world.

Thank you again for supporting the world of luxury.